Aglianico: Do-It-Yourself

Aglianico: Do-It-Yourself

For those of you pursuing an indie do-it-yourself wine education (Really, who else can do it for you?), you might like to take time to explore one of the great and most important grape varietals of Italy’s south, Aglianico.

You’ll probably notice pretty quickly two confounding things about Aglianico: a) that you won’t find it in every wine shop and, b) that when you do, you will likely encounter Aglianico wines from varied regions such as Campania, Sicily, Molise, Puglia, and Basilicata to name a few.

tenuta-del-portale-le-vigne-a-capanno-2009-1All the aforementioned regions produce noteworthy expressions of Aglianico and you must try them eventually. But, do yourself a favor: begin your exploration with Aglianico from Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture to be specific (takes its name from the region’s dormant volcano Monte Vulture), or from Campania’s Taurasi appellation (named for one of the production area communities), as those two expressions of Aglianico generally set the bar for important Aglianico reference points.

Brief geography: Basilicata is that part of the Italian peninsula that forms the ankle on the boot. You can locate that pretty easily. With only slightly more effort, to find the area for Taurasi, zero in on the Province of Avellino in Campania and you’ll have the place (Hey, don’t complain, I did say “brief” geography, remember? It is do-it-yourself, afterall). Separated by just 40 or so miles, the very common denominator relating the del Vulture and Taurasi production zones is the volcanic soil on which they are situated and in which Aglianico seems to thrive.

I can offer a thumbnail sketch of how the Vulture and Taurasi wines compare: well, actually, I hate doing this kind of broad brush thing, because there are always exceptions, but as you force me:

Aglianico del Vulture wines tend to be wines of complexity and detail, with dark and red fruit tones underlined by mineral character (volcanic, right?) and firm, often dusty tannins, while Taurasi – again, generally speaking – is perhaps the more structured of the two, also has the mineral thing going on, a wine that can show incredible depth and a finish that can go on forever. When cellared, Aglianico wines from either del Vulture or Taurasi areas will reward your patience.

Descriptors for wines from either zone could include red cherry, black cherry, plum, violets, smoke, meat, leather, vanilla, cocoa, menthol and tobacco, and no, that is not a definitive list. Foodie’s will appreciate that Aglianico’s naturally high acidity makes it a great food wine (and also balances alcohol levels that can be north of 14%).

Recommended, reasonable price points and pretty good trade distribution as far as I know:

Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture
Tenuta Portale Le Vigne a Capanno Aglianico del Vulture
Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi
Terredora di Paolo Taurasi Fatica Contadina

Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva 2011

Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva 2011

bellini-chianti-rufina-riserva-2011-outdoors-aBack in the day, Chianti wines were “in”.

And then … they were “out”.

But, at the moment, Chianti wines are enjoying a rather well-deserved resurgence in popularity among wine drinkers on either end of the generational spectrum. I mean, look, when you can Google (to “Google” has become a new verb, apparently) “hipster Chianti” and “dad Chianti” with results returned for either, there is something interesting going on.

After all, if there is one thing that dads and hipsters and most of the non-prozac demographic can appreciate it is quality at a good value point and many Chianti wines today are bringing it.

I met the Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva in April during a guided tasting segment at Chianti NYC 2014 and based on that encounter, decided to score a couple of bottles when I came across the wine over the weekend.

The wine has a unique taste, dusty in a way, and is widely aromatic of cherries with subtle, evolving notes of tobacco, cocoa, eucalyptus and smoke. Plenty of vivid yet soft acidity, dry tannins in just the right measure. Harmonic all the way.

bellini-chianti-riserva-swordfish-a1That on Day 1 this Chianti Rufina Riserva rocked when enjoyed with a grill seared bone-in pork chop is probably no surprise so I won’t dwell on it. That on Day 2, cooled down to ~ 62 degrees , it had the range at table to be spectacular when served with grilled swordfish and eggplant dressed with chopped oil cured olives, garlic, sun dried tomatoes, capers, marinated artichoke hearts – is something else. (Warning: if your oeno-logic sense of adventure has you swinging wide to pair Sangiovese with anything but pasta and red sauce, this one may not be for you.)

Not hungry? No problem. Pour it anyway. Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva plays a good solo act.

Details:
Sangiovese 90%, Canaiolo 5%, Colorino 5%, aged in traditional 20-40 HL oak barrels for 24 months.

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