Narrative does provide and communicate context around wine. That’s important, at least at certain stages of appreciation. But, ultimately, you have to turn the volume down on narrative and decide for yourself if the wine is real or not, if it’s really there for you in the way you want to enjoy it.
One of the most real wines to land on my table of late is Domaine Hubert Chavy Bourgogne Rouge La Taupe 2008. The wine possesses remarkable epicurean utility and an air of romance, qualities that are becoming antique in the current wine market.
That’s not to suggest that this Bourgogne Rouge is out of step: I mean that style and fashion are two different things.
Rock beats scissors.
Style beats fashion.
You leave certain things to the glam and trophy wines.
Elegance, romance, real life?
Leave those things to wines like this one.