As 2016 was sliding to a close, the elements of style, grace, elegance and good taste seemed nowhere to be found on the US national stage. Which is, in part, why raising a toast to honor the 20th vintage of Falesco’s flagship wine Montiano stood out in the moment.
The Cotarella family of Falesco winery and the Paone family of Kiton Bespoke Clothing, a master of the Italian art of fashion, joined forces to provide a vertical tasting of the famed wine at Kiton NYC, alongside Kiton’s immaculate designs. Yes, the wines gave good testimony to the fame and acclaim they have earned. But, we’ll get to that soon enough.
Indulge me, first, to note that the evening’s gracious hospitality and stylish presentations were not only perfect backdrops for the elegant expression of the Montiano wines. They also just happened to give a gentle reminder that civilized living, in some regard, is, well… a matter of good taste.
Interestingly, “civilized living” is one descriptor I might use to convey an impression of Falesco’s Montiano. Simply said, the wine is so elegantly done that one cannot help but reflect on civilized living when tasting it. Produced from 100% Merlot, Montiano was first released in 1993, a result of work done by Riccardo Cotarella, aka “Mr. Merlot”(Gambero Rosso), during the ‘80s. In their production zone in Italy’s Lazio, Montiano grapes reach a high level of ripeness which contributes to the wine’s fine balance. Grown on volcanic soil rich in rock, the grapes are sourced from an old, naturally low-yielding vineyard and undergo rigorous selection before undergoing stainless steel fermentation followed by aging in French barrique.
The evening’s wines – vintages 2001, 20015, 2010, 2013 – all showed great depth with gorgeous layers of ripe red fruit, notes of spice and cocoa. Sensual and refined, the wines were a pleasure to hold in the mouth.
I include several photos here because most folks can still use a dose of elegance, grace, style … and good taste … at the moment. I hope you enjoy them.
Hats off to Teuwen Communications NYC for a wonderful evening of wine, style, brilliant concept and great execution.
A quick check of our local weather forecast feels as if mother nature will set the tone heading into New Year’s Eve weekend: “Accumulating snow across the high terrain…overspreading the region…”.
No complaints. Firewood is split and stacked. And anyway, I’m in the mood for a cozy winter night of celebration to welcome in 2017.
Top of mind, a warming, hearty menu full of savory rich flavors seems apropos and the wine should follow suit.
From the Montefalco region of Umbria in central Italy, the Sagrantino grape is not only indigenous to the area, but has a rather ancient record of growing there according to knowers of local tradition. The name Sagrantino, some believe, derives from the Italian sagra, meaning feast, a fact that resonates during the festive time of New Year celebrations. The variety produces a wine of the same name, known to be Italy’s most tannic wine and with a quality of tannin that is remarkably polished, a distinction making the wines of Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (made with 100% Sagrantino grapes) truly unique.
Combining power and elegance, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wines show good complexity and sturdy tannins and have the stuffing to cut the richness of, say, a tender filet mignon, to create a harmonic blend of flavors. Pairing classic sides such as creamed spinach and truffle mashed potatoes with of a glass of Sagrantino will surely not disappoint.
To ring in the New Year with a proper toast of good bubbles is tradition, no doubt. But, for the main event at table – a decadent, celebratory menu featuring roasted meats with all the trimmings – Sagrantino’s power, elegance, and beautifully tannic personality will steal the show.
Broccatelli Galli Montefalco Sangrantino 2010
Loads of bramble-berry fruit, notes of savory herb, balanced spice, plenty of smooth, luxurious tannins to finish.
A Visit to Inglenook and Francis Ford Coppola Winery
It was back in April that I arranged to visit the Coppola estates of Inglenook and Francis Ford Coppola Winery. I’d expected to report on the trip somewhat earlier though, frankly, it has taken me all of the intervening time to process the experience, to think my way through it.
The narrative around the respective estates and wines is deep in its breadth and detail. I won’t spoil it for you by retelling important scenes here, the estate tours are incredibly entertaining and informative in that way. I will say, though, that visiting Inglenook and Francis Ford Coppola Winery, I, the visitor, the wine lover, am suddenly connected to complex, often emotional stories about life, love, family, food, wine and adventure that, at times, extend far beyond the Coppola clan.
Thanks to the hospitable personalities and impressive local / historical knowledge of ambassadors Harold (Inglenook) and Bob (Coppola Winery), I feel not simply a bystander to a good tale, but rather a cast member of sorts. One might be inclined to dismiss it as strategic marketing, if it weren’t for the fact that, at the end of the day, visitors, I think, walk away with something: something discovered, or perhaps re-discovered, something awakened. In my case, I carried home with me a feeling that exists somewhere between nostalgia and identity, an awareness that the experience of growing up Italian-American plays no small role in my connection to wine.
And what could be surprising about wine playing the leading role in a story about family, food, wine and adventure by a five-time Oscar winning director? Coppola, by the way, is not the topic here, however, I think there is no way to write about the wines without making the connection: the wines are as connected to Coppola as Italy’s wines are to their respective local traditions and histories. So, you must allow me this one point:
In an interview with trumpeter Miles Davis, Bill Boggs asked Miles, “Your father gave you a trumpet, your mother gave you a violin, for your thirteenth birthday. What if your mother had prevailed?” Miles replied, “It wouldn’t have made any difference.” Whether Coppola had been “given” a 35mm camera, typewriter, saxophone or vineyard, I don’t think it would have made any difference: all other things being equal, a profound expression of love, family, belonging, food, wine and adventure would have emerged in either case.
While Inglenook and the work which Coppola has done there – renovation of the historic estate on a scale that gives one the impression that history can be reassembled – can be best be appreciated by grown-ups, the Francis Ford Coppola Winery is, in a good way, an over the top analogy to the Sunday dinner experience in most Italian homes: families, young and old, coming together, sharing, communicating and an overwhelming sense that you are a part of something much bigger than you.
What’s not to be forgotten here is that the wines stand on their own: lovely stories, Coppola, and Hollywood aside, in the glass, the wines justify the narrative and not the other way around.
And that’s just good wine.
Tasting Notes / Impressions:
Blancaneaux 2011 Created in ‘95 as a partner to the estate’s flagship Rubicon, an organically farmed blend (as far as I am aware, the estate’s other wines mentioned here are also organically farmed) of Marsanne, Raussanne and Viognier. Stone fruit, notes of honey, florals. Rich on the palate underscored with harmonic citrus. Long, complex, mineral finish.
Edizione Pennino 2010 Apparently, early on, consultants advised removal of the Zin vines, a suggestion which Coppolo promptly vetoed. Applause. Berry jam, warm spice, smoke, lush in the mouth, one can drink this one all day.
Cask Cabernet 2009 Sporting the first Inglenook label that did not include a picture of the Chateaux, this Cab is sourced from vineyards located toward the estate’s front property (whereas Rubicon is sourced from vineyard sections located toward the estate’s back property). Stunning red fruit aromatics over rich, raisin-y undertones inflected with mint and spice. Intense flavors of briar fruit, cherry, with sublime, supple tannins. Miles deep.
Rubicon 2009 The estate’s flagship wine, a proprietary Cab blend from vines certified to be heritage clone genetic material brought from France by Gustave Niebaum, Inglenook’s founder, in the 1800’s. Interestingly, Rubicon and Cask are sometimes sourced from the same parcels, albeit from different sections. Rubicon, for me, is a darker personality than the brighter Cask Cabernet, offering insanely good berry fruit, pipe tobacco, violets, notes of baker’s chocolate, possessing good muscle and massive depth. Long, firmly tannic finish. Love it.
Francis Ford Coppola Winery (Sonoma):
FC Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 The vintage I tasted is sourced from Kylah’s Vineyard, Russian River (winemaker Corey Beck grades and selects growers each vintage). The vineyard is known for intense, slowly ripened Pinot, the result of wide diurnal temperature variations. A well-structured, feminine Pinot Noir with a sophisticated personality. Intense, dark fruit impressions play counterpoint with brighter berry tones, flower petals, nicely balanced spice notes. Gorgeous, lady-like tannins. Captivating.
Director’s Cut Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Produced from Alexander Valley vineyard fruit (same latitude as the winery) this Sauvignon Blanc is fermented and finished in stainless steel. Exotic fruit, citrus, hints of orange creamsicle and brown spice. Persistent mineral finish with impressions of dried fruit.
Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 This nicely structured, very drinkable Cab delivers a nose full of dark berry fruit, tobacco and wet earth. Luscious, dark cherry flavors on the palate, hints of raisin, licorice and spice. Fine, ripe tannins and a way smooth finish. An everyday Cab offering great value for money.
Diamond Collection Merlot 2010 Produced with fruit from Napa, Sonoma, and Monterey, the wine contains a lion’s share of Merlot (~ 80%) with some Petit Verdot and a splash of Syrah added. Harmonius, soft in the mouth, brambly berries, saddle leather, brown spice and a smooth tannic suite.