Posted By Joel on May 9, 2009

Fattoria Ambra Carmignano Montefortini 2004

From the 15th century poem “Ambra”, written by Lorenzo de Medici and so evocative of the Tuscan countryside, the Fattoria Ambra takes its name.  The mythical wood nymph Ambra, before being caught by the god Ombrone, was transformed into a rocky prominence which later became the site for Lorenzo’s beloved villa Ambra. The poem celebrates villa Ambra at Poggio a Caiano and the beauty of the Tuscan land.

Fattoria Ambra, which is located nearby Poggio a Caiano, the Ombrone River, and the Medici villa, counts among its vineyards the important Carmignano crus of Montalbiolo, Elzana, Santa Christina, and Montefortini. Montalbiolo and Elzana are DOCG single cru riserva bottlings while Montefortini and Santa Christina are bottled as DOCG single cru normale.  Vineyards total about 18 hectares.

Carmignano wine is based on a minimum of 50% Sangiovese, a maximum 20% of Cabernets Sauvignon or Franc singley or together, and varying amounts of other allowable varietals such as Merlot, Syrah and  Canaiolo as prescribed by the Carmignano disciplinare.  The range of “uva Francesca” - French grape - has been in these parts since the 1700’s and is said to have been introduced by the Medici.  Hmmm…the original predecessor to Super Tuscans?

Most references to the Carmignano production zone set it at just under 100 hectares, making it the smallest zone in Italy.  I believe, however, the area had grown to over 150 hectares by 2005 and have seen recent references to suggest a larger production area.  In any case, the zone is a small one and if not the smallest in in Italy, is certainly one of the smallest, and was decreed as “controlled” area in 1716 with a notice issued by Cosimo  III de Medici, Duke of Tuscany.

The Montefortini cru is approximately 100 meters altitude with a sandstone type of soil.  Fattoria Ambra is very singleminded about quality grape selection.  ”Green” vineyard practices include use of only organic fertilizers, herbicides are not used at all and pesticides are mainly based on copper / sulpher.  Between the rows, plants are allowed to rise and are returned to the soil as organic fertilizer.  

Pre/cold maceration is carried out to ensure that primary aromas are maintained. 50% of the wine goes to 350 - 500 litre tonneaux and 50% is destined to oak cask (botti) for a period of 12 months.  Only very low dose of S02 is applied to the wine.

Tasting Notes / Impressions:

A vivid hue of crimson, the wine was quiet at first, but benefitted from 30 minutes of open air, revealing an intriguing, winey bouquet scented of violets.  Friuty black cherry, rich, and smooth - a smoothness I’ll attribute here to the French varietals - with suggestions of anise, clove, and tobacco.  The finish is moderately long ending in a final cadence that calls to mind just how well structured the wine is.  A wine of aristocratic personality relying more on finesse than brute strength to achieve structure, harmony, and balance.

Food Pairing Suggestions:  Grilled or Roasted Meats:  try roast lamb or pork with rosemary and sage, or grilled steak with olive oil and squeeze of lemon;  Barbecued Meats:  ribs for sure;  Liver Dishes:  chicken or calves liver;  Stews and Pasta:  with rich, spicy sauces;  Cured Meats; Aged cheeses.  Also try this wine with international foods like sushi, sashimi, or maki; Indian or Chinese dishes of mild -medium spice.

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Categories: $ (Under $25), Tuscany, Uncategorized, Wine
Tags: Sangiovese