Posted By Joel on April 30, 2010

Giovanni Rosso Barolo Serralunga 2004

Giovanni Rosso Barbera d’Alba Donna Margherita 2006

When the conversation moves to Barolo or Barbera, it seems of late that many are determined to label producers either traditional or modern (aka reformist). There are differences to be sure, but upon tasting wines from Piedmont producer Giovanni Rosso, the word I best like to describe that producer is NOW.

Giovanni Rosso’s Barbera and Barolo are wines that are totally “in the moment” and will appeal, I think, to both traditional and modern tastes, and represent a fine portal of entry for wine lovers wishing to explore Barbera or Barolo.

Braced by nearly a century of Rosso family experience farming vineyards in Italy’s Piemonte, Giovanni Rosso restructured vineyards during the 1980’s with the intent of growing exceptional fruit. Since 2001 son and current proprietor Davide Rosso has laid a very talented hand upon winemaking at the estate. My guess is that we can expect more very cool things from Davide in years to come.

Located in Serralunga d’Alba, the Giovanni Rosso estate is comprised of ten total hectares involving eight or so different crus. Great respect is given to the individuality and nature of each cru, its soil conditions, altitude, exposure, etc.

Giovanni Rosso Barolo Serralunga 2004

Made of 100% Nebbiolo from crus Costa Bella, Broglio, Sorano, Meriame that together bring into play soil characteristics of sand, limestone, clay. Vinified in cement tank using wild yeast, fermentation takes place over 25 days. Refinement is carried out in large Fontainebleau Forest French oak. Bottled without filtration.

Tasting Notes / Impressions:

A pretty gem stone ruby color, the wine shows cherries, dried roses, autumn leaves, dark berry preserves and spice. With absolutely incredible presence and body in the mouth, this Barolo exerts a sensuous, soft, luxuriant character with good tannic grip and a long finish.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

MEATS: slow cooked beef casserole; veal cutlets stuffed with Fontina cheese; roast duck; PASTA: wide pasta noodles served with duck “Bolognese”; VEGETARIAN: tortelli stuffed with pumpkin and amaretti cookie crumbs, scented with nutmeg; whole wheat spaghetti or tagliatelle served with toasted bread crumbs and walnut pesto; egg pasta with creamy gorgonzola mushroom sauce; plate of mixed medium and aged cheeses.

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Giovanni Rosso Barbera d’Alba Donna Margherita 2006

Made of 100% Barbera from crus Damiano, Costa Bella and Cerretta, soil elements include limestone, mineral and clay marl. Fermentation carried out over 18 or so days, refined in French oak for 12 months and an additional 3 months of bottle ageing. Bottled without filtration.

Tasting Notes / Impressions:

Deep ruby red core, speckled with lighter garnet reflections. A super fresh mix of red and black berries, mineral, conifer, occasional hints of milk chocolate. As does the Barolo above, this Barbera connects with remarkable presence and body in the mouth. Friendly tannins and a deliciously smooth finish.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

MEATS: pancetta wrapped chicken or game bird; baked or pan fried sausages; pork chops with apples and sage; PASTA: oven baked pasta or gnocchi, served with meat sauce; RISOTTO: sausage risotto; CHEESES: young and medium aged cheeses, I preferred creamier cheeses; VEGETARIAN: egg and cheese soup scented with nutmeg served over toasted French bread slices; shorter pasta cuts like penne served with mushroom cream sauce; arancini stuffed with either mozzarella, fontina, or taleggio, and perhaps mushrooms.

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Categories: $ (Under $25), $$ ($25-$50), Piedmont, Uncategorized, Wine
Tags: Barbera, Nebbiolo