Selvapiana: Chianti Rufina
Posted By Joel on September 1, 2009
–Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2005
–Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2007
Like the magnificent ceramics of Romano Innocenti, Selvapiana Chianti Rufina is a unique expression of style and the natural world. I find a certain finesse, purity, and a freshness in both that speak to me of rural Tuscany.
[ Incidentally, you can find out more about Romano Innocenti and his ceramic works here. ]
The Selvapiana estate is located east of Florence in the Rufina subzone, the smallest geographical subzone of the Chianti production area. Selvapiana and Rufina winemaking have gone hand in hand for an astonishing 182 years across five generations since the estate was purchased in 1827 by Michele Giuntini Selvapiana. The wines of Selvapiana demonstrate the uniqueness of Rufina terroir and are known for their longevity. Heirs Silvia and Federico (Giuntini) Masseti manage operations day to day. Franco Bernabei has been consulting oenologist at Selvapiana since 1978.
Please do dust off your wine map, locate Chianti, and then, locate Rufina, just northeast of Florence, in the top right of the Chianti zone. Rufina’s northerly situation, in comparison to the other Chianti subzones, yields a somewhat longer growing season with exaggerated differences between day and night temperatures. Grapes tend to ripen more slowly. The oscillation of temperature, in combination with the high percentage of limestone in the Rufina soil influences the wine profile toward pronounced aromatics, higher acidity, and a structure suited to extended aging. The wines of Rufina express terroir with as much individuality and distinction as any of its sister Chianti subzones.
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina is comprised of Sangiovese and a small amount (approx. 5%) of Canaiolo from various Selvapiana estate vineyards at altitudes of up to 200 meters. The soil is galestro - a typical rocky Tuscan soil - mixed with clay and limestone. Fermentation is carried out in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and traditional glass-lined concrete vats. Frequent pumpovers and punchdowns are performed encouraging extraction and color. 30% of the wine goes to stainless steel tanks for maturation; 50% heads off to oak casks; and 20% find its way to barriques. After blending, the wine is further refined in French oak casks for 10 months; then, the wine is laid down in bottle for an additional 3 months before release.
Tasting Notes:
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2005
This is a traditionally styled, well bred chianti with classic aromatics of dried cherries, tobacco, leather, herbs, and earth. Wonderfully concentrated flavors of cherry, strawberry, and a hint of balsam, swirl with delicious acidity around fine, round tannins. An exceedingly fresh and satisfyingly long mineral finish.
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2007
Medium garnet color and a delicate perfume of dried cherries, plums, earth and spice. As with the 2005, cherry and strawberry flavors predominate the palate, with grace notes here of powdered chocolate and herb, underscored by good acidity. Supple and classic, with smooth tannins and a softness at the edges that make for a rather elegant, easy drinkability.
NOTE: I found the wine benefitted by a good 20 minutes of air time.
Food pairing suggestions:
Roasted / grilled meats, especially with herbs; pork or veal chops wrapped with prosciutto; pasta dishes, particularly when flavored with mushrooms or rich sauces; hearty soups; cheeses.
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