Tre Bicchieri NYC 2013
Standing on line waiting to enter the Tre Bicchieri 2013 tasting in New York City might have been a bore if not for the dubious entertainment of overhearing a pair queue-dwellers trumpeting their opinionated blather, their take on what it is that Tre Bicchieri is and is not “all about” (which I won’t reflect here since it is indeed blather of the first rate).
I do have the inclination to interject that Tre Bicchieri is still one of the year’s most important Italian wine tastings, providing a tasting opportunity of incredible depth and breadth. But, I quickly surmise that these characters are interested less about tasting wine than inhaling the scent of their own egos. So, I leave them to continue their conversational equivalent of that rear quarters sniffing thing that dogs do when they meet.
Entering Tre Bicchieri, things are well organized and efficient. Handed a printed program and a clean wine glass, I am, to my palate’s delight, turned loose into a very large room filled with Italy’s top producers and their wines. A kid in the proverbial candy shop am I.
As always, Tre Bicchieri this day presents a well-edited group of Italian wines. Here are several that I especially enjoyed and which deserve special mention:
Tramin Nussbaumer Gewurztraminer 2011
Flowers, mango, papaya and honey, spritz of citrus. Amazing in the mouth, the wine has a rich, rolling palate and gorgeous finish. Irresistable.
Mastroberardino Radici 2008
Athletic, graceful, elegant – think Muhammad Ali in his prime – delivering a combination punch of delicious dark fruit, fragant violets and silky tannins.
Livon Collio Friulano Manditocai 2010
I am just blown away by the intensity and craftsmanship of this Friulano. Glorious perfume of peach and brown spice with a rich, stone fruit palate against a background note of bitter almond.
Cesarini Sforza Trentino Aquila Reale Ris. 2005
Spectacular golden color, notes of fruitcake, breadcrust and amaretto cookie. Sublimely fresh, creamy palate.
Lvnae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino 2011
Flowers and fruit in astounding harmony made savory by a spray of seasalt. Massively refreshing.
Lvnae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino Cavagino 2011
This single vineyard Vermentino takes it up a click, showing harmonic greatness. Floral, fruity, a luscious, broad honeyed palate and a delicious aftertaste with serious staying power.
Marisa Cuomo Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco Fiorduva
Frrom Amalfi’s rocky coast, this wine is a seductive siren calling of whiteflowers, apricots, with hints of citrus and fig. Stunning.
Marziano Abbona Barolo Terlo Ravera 2008
Approachable, feminine, with tons elegance and finesse. Berries, violets, roses, tobacco, good minerality, subtle spice.
Rainoldi Sfursat di Valtellina 2008
Intense, aromatic, complex. Plum, raisin, hints of mocha and smokey lapsong suchong tea. Full, round and warm in the mouth. Barolo lovers: attention
Ermete Medici Reggiano Lambrusco Concerto 2011
If you think the somewhat bubbly, purplish character of Lambrusco to be off-putting, think again: this is one of the most deliciously refreshing wines I have tasted all day ! Fragrance of berries and violets, a round, fresh, fruity, nicely dry palate and appetite-raising level of acidity. Bring on the grilled sausages !
Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso Feudo 2010
I love this wine for its clear-as-a-bell raspberry palate, lively personality, hint of smoke and good grip.
La Montina Franciacorta Extra Brut Vintage Ris. 2005
Complex and expressive with the graceful power of a world class athlete, this Franciacorta impresses with tons of classic Franciacorta style. Make no mistake, this is a very special bottle.