Posted By Joel on August 14, 2009

Valdicava Rosso di Montalcino 2006

It is amazing how many times the word “opulent” has been used to describe the wines of Valdicava.

Feel free to test me on this - search for “Valdicava+opulent” and see what the search engines return.

The Valdicava estate and its wines have assumed a fame of almost mythic proportion among Italian wine cognoscenti. And while I understand the references to “opulent”, it is interesting that the popular focus seems fixed upon concentration, weight, and power.

Permit me to offer an alternate word: Balance.

The final, resounding chord of the Beatles masterpiece “A Day in Life” - sheer rhapsodic beauty reverberating harmonic structure on pinpoint balance - seems, for me, a more accurate impression of what Valdicava wines are all about.

The historical Abbruzzese family toiled on the land as sharecroppers, until Martini Bramante - grandfather to Valdicava proprietor Vincenzo Abbruzzese - bought a substantial 300 hectares in the 1950’s. Bramante, who made a first Brunello in 1967 and years later considered selling Valdicava, was joined by Vincenzo in 1987. Vincenzo began making improvements consistent with fine wine making and brought in consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli who, along with agronomist Andrea Paoletti and Abbruzzese, complete a tight triad of partnership in practice and philosopy.

The Valdicava estate is located in Tuscany in one of the coolest areas of Montalcino, on sloping land in a valley of the same name. Estate practices include high density / low yield techniques and the estate’s philosophy reflects the notion that great wines begin in the vineyard. It is here that I believe the Valdicava “magic” exists — there is a pursuit of that philosopy which is so well executed that the vines are denied nothing to grow and everything that would make them lazy or apathetic, another paragon of balance in the Valdicava storyline. As the old Chinese saying goes, “Tea in the cup, tea out”.

Sangiovese grapes for the Valdicava Rosso di Montalcino are harvested from the estate’s Lago, Cipressi, Filai Lunghi, and Nova vineyards, vinified separately and a final blend determined depending on quality of harvest. At an eclectic crossroads of tradition and modernist thinking, Valdicava makes use of both Slovenian oak cask and French barrique to bring out its wine’s best expression and balance.

Tasting Notes / Impressions:

Regally hued plummy, dark garnet color, and a constantly morphing mélange of tobacco, earth and herb aromas mingle with those of sweetly ripened dark fruit. Rich, dark fruit of incredible purity and clarity on the palate. This Rosso, in structure, is much closer to Brunelli I’ve tasted than it is to other Rossi. Balance and form are so in harmony with this wine that I’m not sure if “structure” applies so much as “architecture” may. A lengthy finish that is at once elegant, intense, in sympathetic reverberation with all the wines components. Molecules of art.

NOTE: This wine will benefit from 45 or so minutes of air time.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

MEAT: as first choices, go with beef, lamb, or prosciutto wrapped veal, though turkey, game birds and pork work well, too; PASTA: pasta dressed with meat or mushroom sauces, especially consider classic “pici” or pappardelle; POLENTA: dressed with meat or mushroom sauces; OTHER: Stuffed porcini mushrooms (especially done on the grill).

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Categories: $$ ($25-$50), Tuscany, Uncategorized, Wine
Tags: Sangiovese