Featured Producer: Vietti
Posted By Joel on September 28, 2009
Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco 2006, Langhe DOC
Vietti Roero Arneis 2007, DOCG
“…use no style as style, use no way as the way…”
— Bruce Lee
Bruce Lee was a visionary man, an actor, martial artist and philospher who realized that truth in movement existed outside of systems and patterns.
To hear Luca Currado of Vietti wines tell his *story of being neither traditionalist nor modernist, of having no particular style and of deciding what it is that each vintage wants from him, I am reminded that winemaking, too, has its truth.
Based in Castiglione Falleto in the heart of the Italy’s Piedmont’s region, the Vietti estate and Luca Currado represent 5 generations of Langhe winemaking. In the early 1900’s Mario Vietti led the family farm through a renewal that resulted in the estate growing its own grapes and offering its own wines for sale. But it was Alfredo Currado - husband of Luciana Vietti and father of Luca - who was one of the first pioneers in the early ’50’s that dared produce single Cru Barolo. In the late ’60’s, it was again Alfredo who almost singlehandedly restored life to the Arneis varietal that came close to being lost in time. Luca attended oenology school at the prestigious winemaking college of Alba, Italy and after working abroad both in France and California, Luca joined the family business in 1990. The Vietti estate owns approximately 35 hectares spread out across some of the best sites in several appellation zones.
Luca pursues a creative, artistic, terroir driven approach to winemaking, with a humility that is both sensitive and aware: good wine, he says *”…comes from the soil, not from you”.
Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco 2006
Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco 2006 is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes sourced from several important Crus: Scarrone, Bricco Boschis, Valletta in Castiglione Falletto, Fossati in Barolo and Ravera in Novello. Each Cru is vinified and aged separately with fermentation taking place over 18-21 days; malolactic is carried out in stainless steel and barrel. Aging is a cru-dependent combination of 10 months in barrique / 16 months in Slavonian oak cask.
[ I encourage you to learn more about the important Crus named above, especially if you are interested in Barolo. There is great information in a book called "Wine Atlas of the Langhe", more info on that book found here.]
Tasting Notes / Impressions:
Like the music of a prolific composer written during youth, this wine bears a likeness to greatness. Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco is a child prodigy in whom we sense a junior version of great Barolo. Faded ruby color and complex aromatics that, had they been represented as musical notation, would have been marked for playing as espressivo, giving scents of withered roses, autumn leaves and ripe fruit. Lively interplay of ripe cherry flavors, good acidity, and tannins is given drama by inner mouth aromas that come and go da niente al niente. Finishes with impressions of dried flowers that linger and hang like the final notes of a live, romantic classical guitar recital.
Food Pairing Suggestions:
Robust stews and casseroles, especially beef or veal; roasted meat and game - try wrapping the meat in pancetta before cooking or topping with wafer thin sliced truffle; hearty polenta dishes; mature cheeses.
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Vietti Roero Arneis 2007, DOCG
Vietti Roero Arneis is produced from 100% Arneis grapes harvested from 25 year old vines at Santo Stefano Roero, territory in the heart of the Roero area of Italy’s Piedmont. Vineyards are planted to a density of about 4,500 in a soil mix of mostly clay and sand. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel autoclave at controlled temperature, capturing a bit of natural C02. The wine undergoes no malolactic fermentation, maintaining optimum freshness and acidity. The wine is then held in stainless tank until bottling during the January or February after harvest.
Tasting Notes / Impressions:
An appealing, muted shade of saffron, with apple, grapefruit, and flowers on the nose. Crazy fresh fruit with hints of melon and papaya take center stage on a palate that is individualized by delicious acidity and minerality. Great balance and a tight frame - reminds me why I love my Mondonico road bicycle! A lingering and complex finish trails off with a suggestion of marzipan.
Food Pairing Suggestions:
MEATS: chicken, pork, and especially veal – recommend the classic vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce); PASTA: simply prepared, thin pasta, like cappellini, dressed with a light cream sauce; SALADS: hearty salads, perhaps with chunks of chilled seafood or chicken, bacon, apple, etc., tossed with creamy dressings; ANTIPASTI: this wine will pair nicely with most flavorful antipasti – for example, roasted sweet peppers dressed with anchovy, garlic and oil. SOUPS: go for soups with a chicken broth base, flavored with lighter ingredients, for example, spinach, egg, rice, pastina, etc.; ALSO: don’t miss trying this wine with slightly - medium spicy Asian dishes that feature ingredients above.
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* taken from Luca’s interview with Grape Radio, found here.
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