Posted By Joel on April 6, 2009

Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2007
Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2009

The City of Beautiful Towers, as San Gimignano is known, is rich in culture, history, art, nature - and Vernaccia is part of it all!

As early as 1276 San Gimignano municiple records tell us of a thriving trade for its Vernaccia.  An exquisitely delicate white wine, vernaccia has charmed poets, artists, Popes, and noblemen alike:  Dante Alighieri told of vernaccia in his Purgatorio (Purgatory); Michelangelo sang of it; vernaccia graced the table of the Medici; the wine steward for Pope Paul III made official requests for it.

The Troiani family had been vinegrowers for several generations when they established Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni, a very small estate in the San Gimignano hills, during the late 1950’s.  During the ’90’s, the estate made investments in cellar renovation and replanting of vineyards, raising the quality bar.  1994 brought the estate a celebrated vernaccia vintage.

At 200 meters (650 feet) altitude, vineyards face south-southeast in calcareous soil.  The estate is meticulous about keeping yields very low which, IMHO is key for top notch vernaccia. The estate uses no herbicides and agri-controls are carried out only as absolutely necessary, only ever utilizing products of sulfer - copper base.  Only organic fertilizer is applied at infrequent intervals.  The estate allows grass to grow between vineyard rows and when mowed it is left to fall back to ground.  SO2 is added to the wines only at very low levels.

Made of 100% vernaccia,the wine is soft pressed at controlled temperature, racked, followed by a short time in the cellar to rest.

Tasting Notes:

Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2007

Golden straw color, delicate, but with a firm acid backbone.  Very lively and crisp in the mouth with delicious notes of lemon and chamomile and a brisk, invigorating finish.

Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2009

Pretty aromatics of fresh cut grass, lemon, ginger and chamomile. Softer on the palate than 2007, perhaps better overall balance, with that wonderful, lively acidity which gives this wine such spirited energy in the mouth. Crisp, satisfying, and elegant, a hint of almond on the finish.

Enjoyed Fontaleoni’s Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2009 with chicken breast cooked in olives and wine, potato salad, grilled vegetables, grilled bread slices spread with roasted garlic and olive oil.

Food pairing suggestions:

Seafood is a perfect match:  try grilled shrimp or softshell crabs on a bed of dandelion greens sauteed in olive oil and garlic.  Excellent with proscuitto or bruschetta antipasti.  Grilled vegetables. Cold chicken salad.  Soft cheeses.  Orzo, warm or cold, with feta cheese and spinach.  Also try this wine with mild curries and Singapore mei fun !

Categories: $ (Under $25), Tuscany, Wine
Tags: Vernaccia