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Sicily: Franchetti “Passopisciaro” 2006

Posted By Joel on April 1, 2009

passopisciaro_small-thumb1Sicily:  Franchetti “Passopisciaro” 2006 Sicilia

Volcano anyone?

Europe’s largest active volcano, Mount Etna, holds the record for longest documented run of volcanic activity. Greek legend speaks of it as being ruled by Vulcan, god of fire, inhabited by the monster Cyclopses and Enceladus the giant.

Great site for a vineyard, right?

Andrea Franchetti thinks so.  Judging by the taste of his Passopisciaro 2006, if it is great wine you are trying to make, one cannot argue the point!

With a firm belief in Sicily and the potential for its indigenous grapes, Andrea Franchetti (of Tenuta di Trinoro fame)was early to the party that would become new frontier in Sicily for artisanal wine producers.  Andrea Franchetti intuitively understood that siting vineyards upon the hills of Mount Etna would call into play incredibly interesting, if not unique, characteristics of terroir.

Michelangelo is famously quoted as saying that, “Every block of stone has a statue inside it and it is the task of the sculptor to discover it.”  With as much passion and artistic vision, Franchetti writes in his notes that the 2006 Passopisciaro “…was a monster that had to be chiseled and polished many times, but finally it turned itself into the elegant kind of wine that Nerello Mascalese can be…”

The estate’s 60-80 year old Nerello Mascalese vines are located on Mount Etna at altitudes of between 650m - 1,000m (2,100 - 3,300 ft).  The high altitude vineyards create an environment where grapes can ripen late and completely. The harvest window can extend all the way into mid-November or later.  Franchetti has the grapes picked at different stages at a maturity that confers good complexity and length upon the finished wine.

Tasting Notes:

With a winning combination of volcanic soil and local grape Nerello Mascalese, the Passopisciara 2006 is made in an international style that is slightly reminiscent of pinot noir.  It has a captivatingly deep, saturated ruby color and a bright perfume of cherries, balsam, anise, and spice.  The nose and palate are super clean and focused underscored by good acidity / minerality.  A velvelty palate of fresh, rich cherry fruit smooths the way for silky tannins and a long, ethereal finish.

Fermented in stainless steel and then off to Slavonian oak (18 months).

Can be drunk now with great enjoyment and should still be great 2011-2015.

Food pairing suggestions:  Baked pasta with rich, even spicy red sauces, casseroles, roasted meats.  Served cold, tuna cooked in tomatoes, olives, capers is a special counterpoint.  ***Also try this wine with Indian masala.

$$

About the author

Joel

Joel Mack has worked for a celebrated importer / distributor of Italian wines and continues to study the wines and winemaking of Italy. He has advised many restaurants in making their Italian wine list selections and has provided training to restaurant staff. Today, Joel conducts wine classes and leads specialized private and corporate tastings of Italian wines. Joel carried out his higher education at a highly regarded College of Music and continues to extend an artistic point of view to Italian wine, balanced with factual information about wine, its nature and identity. By day, he applies his time to collaborative software technology. Joel can be contacted at joel@vintrospective.com.

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