Posted By Joel on January 18, 2015
Note: Jankara Vermention di Gallura Superiore was provided to me as a tasting sample. If interested, see Vintrospective policy about wine samples here.
May I suggest you to locate a writing pen, and with it, write on the palm of your hand the following:
Upon arriving at your favorite wine shop, open your palm to show the salesperson what you’ve written.
If you have with you any luck at all, you may, at that point, be quite nearer to a taste of some astonishingly good Vermentino.
Vermentino di Gallura, to be precise.
Plenty of Vermentino grows elsewhere in Sardinia and on Italy’s mainland, too - Tuscany and Liguria come to mind - to produce what are, in most cases, impressively good wines. But, Vermentino from Sardinia’s Gallura production zone is an especially rich expression of that grape varietal.
The production zone for Vermentino di Gallura is located in Sardinia’s northeast. And though I haven’t yet personally visited the area, I understand it to be characterized by granite mountains, well-drained granite soils and the salty, Mediterranean wind, all of which together contribute to the particular taste and aroma of Vermention di Gallura.
Jankara is a young estate founded in 2006 by Renato and Angela Spanu, situated in the Gallura subzone known as Vena di San Leonardo or Vein of Saint Leonardo. The estate sits at 300 meters altitude and not far from Sardinia’s famed Costa Smerelda beaches. I believe 11 or so of the estate’s 20-something acres are under vine. The area around Vena di San Leonardo is said to be blessed with an especially excellent microclimate, influenced by nearby Lake Liscia and the island’s second highest mountain (Mount Limbara). Here, grapes thrive in the subzone’s cool nights and hot days, and stay exceedingly healthy thanks to the ever present wind which cools and cleans the air, keeping grapes dry and free of disease and pests.
I can tell you from conversations had with Renato while traveling on a bus visiting vineyards in Sardinia’s Sulcis, that his passion for Sardinia and Gallura runs deep: raised in the Gallura area, Rentato speaks about Sardina and Gallura with poetic passion as only a local boy could.
Jankara Vermentino di Gallura Superiore is produced from 100% hand-harvested Vermentino fermented in stainless steel, 6 months tank ageing, additional 2 months in bottle.
In the interest of artistic thinking, fairness, and democratic viewpoint, when writing about wines, I have avoided statements that suggest any particular wine is “the best” in its class or category. I am comfortable to keep it that way. But, I will say, with no reservation whatever, that Jankara Vermentino di Gallura Superiore … is not second best ;-).
Intense yet mellow, with an impressive range of aromas and tastes: flowers, herbs, apricots, papaya, honey, almonds, fleeting notes of fennel and mint. Adore the rich, somewhat viscous palate. Satisfying acidity / minerality. Well-structured and nicely balanced, the wine finishes with a subtle, pleasantly bitter grace note and a delicious lick of seasalt.
Food Pairing Suggestions:
This wine was sensational with tuna steak and black sesame seeds. I am convinced this Vermentino can make a can of good octopus alongside bread and olive oil something to remember. I cannot imagine that anyone pairing the wine with sushi, sashimi, or maki cut rolls could possibly be unhappy with the result. Any shellfish I can think of at the moment alongside a glass of this Sardinian white seems an especially tantalizing idea. Crab meat on grilled buttered toast? Oh yeah. The wine’s herbal notes would bring good company to slices of mozzarella di bufala and tomato, scented with ripped basil and olive oil. In the mood for a more substantial entrée, perhaps? Jankara Vermentino di Gallura Superiore has the stuffing to be poured wherever chicken, rabbit or pork are served