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Welcome to V I N T R O S P E C T I V E

Posted By Joel on February 20, 2009

Vintrospective is voted by Ville in Italia as 2014 Top 15 Italian Wine Blog

March 17, 2012

Readers,

You may have come to know Vintrospective as having a focus on the wines of Italy. This will continue to be the case, however, Vintrospective will expand coverage to wine regions beyond Italy. There is no roadmap or plan for exactly how, except to follow the wines and write as I go. Hope you’ll come along.

Best,
Joel

***********************************************************************

Do you think about the place where your bottle of Italian wine came from, who made it, how it was made?  If you stop to consider these things you will begin to taste the unique cultural message which Italian wine offers.  The wine will tell you about the land where it was created.  It will invite you to drink the traditions and histories of the people that made it. That is good wine.  It’s always been like this, more or less.

Some would have you believe that understanding Italian wine is a technical undertaking.  It’s not like that, believe me.  It is impossible to understand Italian wine without an awareness of the culture, people and place that created it.   Only after we have a sense of these things does the technical stuff add value.

That its wine regions are beautifully different, distinct and many is Italy’s strength and its difficulty.  Her dazzling array of wines will both charm and bewilder you.  I suggest one approach: get to know Italian wine by your own sensory perceptions and experiences: you will create a real, personal wine culture independent of the professional wine press.

Don’t worry;  the wines have their own way of deciding the itinerary for you…  Are you coming?

Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2009 Bordeaux-St. Estephe

Posted By Joel on October 17, 2014

It’s not particularly difficult to remember the beautiful things one comes by on equally beautiful, rainy fall days, when the city looks monochromatic against the grey drizzle.

lilian-ladouys-2009But, I am struck by the fact that I am still thinking about the Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2009 which I had tasted on just such a day during a recent and rather lovely tasting of Bordeaux wines held in an intimate space at Beautique on Manhattan’s west side.

With history dating back to 1654 when it was named Chateau La Doys, ownership of the St. Estephe property known today as Chateau Lilian Ladouys passed during the 18th century to the Barre family before being purchased in recent years by French businessman Jacky Lorenzetti, who also owns full or significant stakes in several other Chateau in the Medoc.

Host Hortense Bernard, Millesima USA

Host Hortense Bernard, Millesima USA

This elegant Bordeaux is produced from the property’s 47 hectare vineyard planted to 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc in a gravely, clay, limestone soil mix typical of St. Estephe. Average age of vines is 40 years.

Vinification is carried out in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation done in barrel on 10% of the fruit, 90% in tank. The wine rests in 40% new French oak for 14-16 months.

Tasting Notes:

Dense, velvety palate full of ripe red and black fruit, notes of pencil lead, earth, tobacco and spice. Harmonic, with well-integrated wood toast. Good grippy tannins and a finish that goes on for miles.

Tasting hosted by Millesima USA.

Event coordinated by Vigneto Communications, great job as always, a pleasure to taste in a venue whose character so well fit the personality of the wines.

The Enigmatic, Beating Heart of Carignano del Sulcis

Posted By Joel on October 6, 2014

NOTE: I traveled as a guest of Consorzio Carignano del Sulcis on an educational press trip to experience the Carignano wines of Sardegna’s Sulcis region.

The following is first in a series of planned articles featuring the region of Carignano del Sulcis, its producers and wines:

You might think that to understand Carignano del Sulcis wines one might simply pour some into a glass.

But, you’d be wrong.

Tasting alone doesn’t capture it.

sardegna-carignano-del-sulcis-mesa-1aTo experience something that extends beyond taste, to feel the enigmatic, beating heart of Carignano del Sulcis, is to understand the appellation in the context of four words:

Sun. Sand. Salt. Scirocco.

One doesn’t need to travel far or long in the region before concluding that the Sulcis sun is both tireless and intense. Light-colored, sandy soils reflect the already strong sunlight back at Carigano vines for intensified effect. It is the amount and quality of Sulcis sunlight that is perhaps the most influencing factor to the zone’s Carignano clusters reaching optimal ripeness as they do, contributing to the high quality and richness of flavor achieved by Carignano wines produced in the region.

sardegna-carignano-del-sulcis-mesa-2a Adding to the region’s heat are Scirocco winds that blow from Africa and across the Mediterranean Sea into Sardegna’s southwest corner where the Sulcis area is located. Here, winds also act as important protectors of vine health, providing all important drying to counter moisture and humidity that, if left unchecked, could lead Carignano’s tight clusters to disease.

Presence of the surrounding sea is announced by a seemingly ever-present scent of saline hanging in the Sulcis air - sometimes mixed with the perfume of Mediterranean herbs growing wild on hillsides - providing unforgettable sensorial information that can be detected in Sulcis Carignano. The sea, a powerful moderator of the region’s heat, plays no small role in bringing a special and unique equilibrium to Sulcis climatic conditions.

sardegna-carignano-del-sulcis-sardus-pater-1aBut, it is the sandy, Sulcis soil which allows ungrafted Carignano vines an opportunity to grow old and safe from phylloxera, a grapevine pest (phylloxera, I’m told, cannot crawl well in the loose, sandy soil.) In fact, Carignano vines trained in the bush or alberello style – a training technique employed to deal with the area’s extreme climatic conditions - can reach to 50, 80, even 100 plus years old in Sardegna’s Sulcis. As poor, sandy soils induce a state of restricted vigor in the vines and old vines have naturally reduced yields, vine nutritional energies are directed to fewer grapes resulting in fruit quality (improved flavor concentration, nuance, etc.) that is astonishingly high.

While traveling in the region, I found Carignano del Sulcis wines I tasted to be wines of harmony showing a remarkable richness of flavor, well-structured wines capable of smoothness, finesse and elegance. Anyone who appreciates the craftsmanship of Burgundy, aromatics and flavors that recall wines of southern France, the intensity of Super Tuscans or the power of California Cab, will find something to love about Carignano del Sulcis.

sardegna-carignano-del-sulcis-sardus-pater-2aAnd I might add to that, anyone who appreciates value: Carignano del Sulcis brings to the market one of the best quality to price ratios in Italian wine today.

It must be said, though, that Carignano del Sulcis is not simply a metaphor for wines of more famous appellations. Like the landscape from which it comes, there is something mysterious, a wildness about Carignano del Sulcis that thrills, an element of personality that is uniquely, deliciously, Sardinian.

Most of the Carignano del Sulcis wines I tasted on this tour would typically best be enjoyed in the short to middle term, say, within five years of vintage. However, there was an impressive example or two of older Carignano del Sulcis wines reaching back eight or ten years that were drinking superbly.

You don’t need to travel to Sardegna to enjoy Carignano del Sulcis. But, understanding something of Carignano del Sulcis in the context of the zone’s incredibly unique terroir and the unique influences of sun, sand, salt and scirocco upon the wines, you are fully prepared – from the rim of your wine glass - to gain a deeper appreciation for the unique expression of Carignano from Sardegna’s Sulcis and its ability to convey nuances of the absolutely fascinating Sulcis terroir.

Recommended Producers Whose Wines Exemplify Sulcis Terroir:

AgriPunica
Calasetta
Mesa
Santadi
Sardus Pater

Look for more about Carignano del Sulcis, specific wines, their producers and food pairings on Vintrospective in the weeks and months to come.

Related Article, Sardinian Passion

Cantine Ascheri Verduno Pelaverga 2012

Posted By Joel on August 13, 2014

This post is dedicated to the grape varietals I will ask you to forget: the likes of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, to name a few, whatever varietals command your usual attention.

cantine-ascheri-verduno-pelavergaDon’t worry. It’s only temporary. Forget them just long enough to discover something completely new about wine, perhaps a varietal you know nothing about.

Enter your favorite wine shop ready to resist the temptation to follow your usual path to familiar bottles. Wander the racks and aisles until you come upon an unfamiliar name, a region unknown to you, a bottle that piques your curiosity. Buy it and go home.

That’s how I came to know Pelaverga, a rare and totally charming wine from Italy’s northwestern hills in the region of Piemonte.

This particular wine, Cantine Ascheri Verduno Pelaverga, pours with pleasing crimson color. Between one sip and the next, air around the glass fills with ethereal scents of strawberry, cherry, notes of incense and of pepper. Berry fruit transfers to the palate along with a bit of subtle spice. Dry, clean, and warm in the mouth, harmonious, with ever-so-slight tannins. Delicate, almost shy at first, this wine achieves an even greater harmony hours after opening and into day 2.

Enjoy Pelaverga with soups and light stews, egg-based dishes such as quiche or sophisticated omelets, meat and vegetable kebabs, white flesh fish dishes. Am looking forward to try this wine with Asian plates, too, as I suspect the exotic incense / spice notes will be a nice compliment to flavors of that cuisine. Serve slightly chilled.

Every once in awhile, forget for a moment what you know in order to discover something which you don’t.

Random? Totally. But, sometimes random is where the party is ;-)

PS Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot… now safely recollected.

Aglianico: Do-It-Yourself

Posted By Joel on June 26, 2014

Aglianico: Do-It-Yourself

For those of you pursuing an indie do-it-yourself wine education (Really, who else can do it for you?), you might like to take time to explore one of the great and most important grape varietals of Italy’s south, Aglianico.

You’ll probably notice pretty quickly two confounding things about Aglianico: a) that you won’t find it in every wine shop and, b) that when you do, you will likely encounter Aglianico wines from varied regions such as Campania, Sicily, Molise, Puglia, and Basilicata to name a few.

tenuta-del-portale-le-vigne-a-capanno-2009-1All the aforementioned regions produce noteworthy expressions of Aglianico and you must try them eventually. But, do yourself a favor: begin your exploration with Aglianico from Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture to be specific (takes its name from the region’s dormant volcano Monte Vulture), or from Campania’s Taurasi appellation (named for one of the production area communities), as those two expressions of Aglianico generally set the bar for important Aglianico reference points.

Brief geography: Basilicata is that part of the Italian peninsula that forms the ankle on the boot. You can locate that pretty easily. With only slightly more effort, to find the area for Taurasi, zero in on the Province of Avellino in Campania and you’ll have the place (Hey, don’t complain, I did say “brief” geography, remember? It is do-it-yourself, afterall). Separated by just 40 or so miles, the very common denominator relating the del Vulture and Taurasi production zones is the volcanic soil on which they are situated and in which Aglianico seems to thrive.

I can offer a thumbnail sketch of how the Vulture and Taurasi wines compare: well, actually, I hate doing this kind of broad brush thing, because there are always exceptions, but as you force me:

Aglianico del Vulture wines tend to be wines of complexity and detail, with dark and red fruit tones underlined by mineral character (volcanic, right?) and firm, often dusty tannins, while Taurasi – again, generally speaking - is perhaps the more structured of the two, also has the mineral thing going on, a wine that can show incredible depth and a finish that can go on forever. When cellared, Aglianico wines from either del Vulture or Taurasi areas will reward your patience.

Descriptors for wines from either zone could include red cherry, black cherry, plum, violets, smoke, meat, leather, vanilla, cocoa, menthol and tobacco, and no, that is not a definitive list. Foodie’s will appreciate that Aglianico’s naturally high acidity makes it a great food wine (and also balances alcohol levels that can be north of 14%).

Recommended, reasonable price points and pretty good trade distribution as far as I know:

Bisceglia Aglianico del Vulture
Tenuta Portale Le Vigne a Capanno Aglianico del Vulture
Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi
Terredora di Paolo Taurasi Fatica Contadina