V I N T R O S P E C T I V E –> An Italian Wine Blog

Posted By Joel on February 20, 2009

Do you think about the place where your bottle of Italian wine came from, who made it, how it was made?  If you stop to consider these things you will begin to taste the unique cultural message which Italian wine offers.  The wine will tell you about the land where it was created.  It will invite you to drink the traditions and histories of the people that made it. That is good wine.  It’s always been like this, more or less.

Some would have you believe that understanding Italian wine is a technical undertaking.  It’s not like that, believe me.  It is impossible to understand Italian wine without an awareness of the culture, people and place that created it.   Only after we have a sense of these things does the technical stuff add value.

That its wine regions are beautifully different, distinct and many is Italy’s strength and its difficulty.  Her dazzling array of wines will both charm and bewilder you.  I suggest one approach: get to know Italian wine by your own sensory perceptions and experiences: you will create a real, personal wine culture independent of the professional wine press.

Don’t worry;  the wines have their own way of deciding the itinerary for you…  Are you coming?

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Posted By Joel on January 16, 2012

Him: how will I know I am in Istanbul if I cannot see ?

Her: you will smell the sea, hear the call to prayers, the cries of seagulls …. ( Thank you, F )

Sometimes I think, as did Judy Collins about clouds (Both Sides Now), that I really don’t know wine at all.

Transported by Arianna Occhipinti’s Sicilia Bianco 2010, I sit, eyes closed, unable to see, smelling the sea, hearing cries of seagulls sounding very much like the opening notes of Bon Iver’s lovely cover of a Bonnie Raitt tune.

The power of wine to conjure memory and emotion, to transport us, remains to me a beautiful mystery.

Nonetheless, I remain gratefully willing to go.

Tasting Notes:

A personality of ocean-like calm intensity. Scents of shore grass, lemon, honey, herb and perspiration seem to capture the bittersweet saline perfume which clings to your skin after a day at the seaside. Light in the mouth, yet structured, finishes with a subtle sensation of tannin-laced minerals. Intriguing, fascinating, charming. Let it be said: Arianna Occhipinti continues to raise the bar for natural wines.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Totally enjoyed this wine with Pacific salmon, couscous with petite peas and onion, spinach with garlic / olive oil. ( See Related Post for other food ideas . )

Related Post: Two Wines from Arianna Occhipinti
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Tags: Moscato

Posted By Joel on January 9, 2012

Nusserhof “Elda” 2009, Vino da Tavola

I loosen the cowhide gloves and rest a splitting axe against my hip. Two and one half cords of wood are split and stacked. A flock of noisy geese break the quiet. The smell of wood smoke tells me my wife has fired up the soapstone stove.

I have done enough today.

Inside, there is polenta cooking, the fire is warm, and I am ready eat. I give the polenta a stir and head downstairs for a good bottle, returning with Nusserhof Elda.

The Nusserhof estate is tucked away in Bolzano of the South Tyrol aka Italy’s Alto Adige. ( This largely bilingual area (German / Italian ) has an interesting political history if you are inclined to research.)

Nusserhof, which has reportedly been working vines since the end of the 1700’s, tends 2.5 hectares in addition to the small plot of old vine Schiava which has sourced Elda.

Tasting Notes:

Pure berries, mountain flowers and a touch of minty alpine freshness. Good intensity in the mouth with suggestions of meat jerky, finishing with medicinal herb and wood smoke. Smooth, earthy power, incredible purity and a lightness that reminds me of good French Pinot Noir. For me, one of the year’s most expressive and memorable wines.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

We loved this Vino da Tavola served with polenta and butter, cheese, sour cream, cabbage and mushrooms topped with rich brown gravy; wild walnuts served with wedges of parmesan cheese; Valrhona dark chocolate.
Dishes that benefit from the smokiness of bacon or speck would be a sensational pairing: for example, bacon-flecked bread dumplings and gravy, or risotto with asparagus and speck.

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Posted By Joel on October 26, 2011

Vallana Spanna Colline Novaresi 2008

It is Halloween week here in the US and for many trick-or-treaters there is magic in the air.

So, let me tell you about magic:

Magic is what happens when the Vallana family of the village Maggiora in Italy’s Alto Piemonte ferments Nebbiolo grapes. And their potion known as Vallana Spanna Colline Novaresi 2008 will certainly cast a delicious spell upon you.

The wine is made with super-selected Nebbiolo grapes (95%) along with a splash of Vespolina and Bonarda sourced from high-altitude vineyards in sub-regions Gattinara and Boca. Vines were planted during the late ‘60’s.

Grapes are cold soaked for 24 hours, then fermented in cement tanks with attentive decision-making overseeing the evolution of every batch. The wine spends 6 months in large oak before bottling.

Tasting Notes / Impressions:

Intense, beautifully articulated pure berry fruit shows great depth, earthy and elegant with notes of smoke, flowers and herbs. Delicious acidity; cough medicine on the finish. Distinctively Italian, yet summons recollections of good Burgundy. Drinking super well right now, this wine is like a fine young prince, noble in its youth and sure to develop magnificently.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Broad-brush picture: you won’t go wrong pairing this wine with roasted meats, aged cheeses or hearty pasta entrees. But, to keep it interesting: I would not hesitate to pair this Spanna with mild-medium spicy Indian dishes or hearty lentil soup with or without meat (sausage would be my choice ! ).

Related Posts: Vallana Gattinara 1999
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Tags: Nebbiolo

Posted By Joel on October 19, 2011

Bera Barbera d’Asti Ronco Malo 2009

Trees along the Massachusetts Turnpike have turned their leaves vibrant oranges, reds, and yellows.

There are pumpkins in the field and apples in the pie.

It is autumn in New England and although Barbera is a great all-year wine, I seem to especially enjoy it during this season.

One Barbera that I particularly enjoyed recently is Bera Barbera d’Asti Ronco Malo 2009:

Founder of the Bera estate Vittorio works alongside his children Alessandra and Gianluigi making natural wines in the commune of Canelli in Italy’s Piemonte. The Bera family works traditionally, eschewing herbicides and chemicals, doing vineyard work manually. The estate has been certified organic since 2000.

The wine is produced using concrete tank, with a good deal of time on the lees, no filtering or fining.

Tasting Notes / Impressions:

Beautifully articulated classic cherry, hints of almond, tobacco, florals. A sense of purity and naturalness in the mouth, finishes with earthy spice. An expressive, big-framed Barbera made in an elegant, classic style. Top shelf Barbera IMHO and a great Italian crossover for French wine lovers.

Food Pairing Suggestions:

Enjoy this wine with all the usual Barbera-pairing suspects such as pasta served with meat or mushroom sauce, cured meats, medium cheeses, etc. But, it will be superb served alongside sautéed duck breast with cherries. And I encourage you to push borders a bit by pairing this Barbera to elegantly spiced dishes from your favorite international cuisines.

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Tags: Barbera